Karşıyaka’ya Lokma Yemeğe

Karşıyaka’ya Lokma Yemeğe

Çocukluğumun vazgeçilmez “bir Cumartesi gezmesi” gibi görünse de aslında bunu sadece bir “gezme” olarak nitelendirmek de haksızlık olur. Bu bir ritüeldir…

Belki, “Alt tarafı bir lokma yemek” diyeceksiniz, ama öyle değil…

Hatta mesele lokma yemek de değil…

Bütün bir hafta okula gitmişsiniz, sonunda günlerden Cumartesi olmuş. O zamanlar Cumartesi günleri de yarım gün okul var. Bu durumda sabahçıysanız 08.00 ile 10.30 saatleri arası, öğlenci iseniz 10.30’dan 13.00’e kadar okuldasınız demektir. Dört gözle beklediğiniz hafta tatili başlamıştır.

Eğer aileniz hafta sonu için Karşıyaka’ya gitme programı yapmışsa, lojman çocukları ile birlikte “Hava Lisan Okulu Sineması”nın saat 14.00’de başlayan çocuk seansına gidemeyeceksiniz demektir. Ama çok da önemli değildir bu. Çünkü eğer Cumartesi Karşıyaka programı varsa, cuma akşamı büyükler için olan seansı ailenizle izlemişsinizdir. Gitmemiş olsanız da Karşıyaka fikri daha caziptir her zaman…

İster sabahçı, ister öğlenci olalım, eve gelir gelmez heyecanla hazırlanmaya başlardık. En güzel elbisemizi, gezmelik ayakkabılarımızı giyip, saçlarımızı da güzelce tarayarak kapıya çıkardık.

Yolculuğumuz annem, babam ve ablalarımla evimizin yakınındaki depo durağından troleybüse binmemizle başlardı. Aracın içinde dolaşan biletçiden biletlerimizi alarak, yerimize oturur, Mithat Paşa Caddesi üzerinden, boynuz düşmesi, ceryan kesilmesi gibi aksilikler olmazsa yarım saatte Konak’a ulaşır, babam “önce karnımızı doyuralım” deyince hemen Kemeraltı’ya yönelirdik.

Solumuzda “Hükümet Konağı”, sağımızda “Şekercibaşı Ali Galip”in dükkanı olmak üzere, Kemeraltı’nın renk cümbüşlü dünyasında kaybolmaya hazır, yolumuza devam ederdik.

Yolumuzun üstünde, sağda Konak Sineması’nın, gözlükçülerin, saatçilerin olduğu OSKA Pasajı ve Çarık Kundura, karşısında tarihi Şifa Eczanesi’ni geçer geçmez, her zaman aynı yerde duvara yaslanmış bir şekilde görmeye alışkın olduğumuz, Kemeraltı Çarşısı’nın seyyar satıcılarından “Çakmaklara gaz lazım gaz” diye dikkatimizi çeken “Kör Hafız” ile karşılaşırdık. Çakmaklara gaz, askı ve ufak tefek tuhafiye malzemeleri satarak, hayatını kazanan Hafız’ı İzmirli olup da tanımayan yoktur diye düşünüyorum.

Başarılı bir tıp öğrencisiyken askere alınarak Antep’e gönderilmiş. İşgal altındaki Antep’te savaşırken sağ gözünü kaybetmiş, ardından Musul’a gönderilmiş. Orada da sol gözünü kaybetmiş. Asıl adı Mustafa Ayrıközü olan Hafız, sağlam gözlerle ayrıldığı İzmir’e kör olarak dönmüş. Okuluna devam edemeyince, Kemeraltı’nın sembollerinden olacak ve 60 yıl sürecek olan seyyar satıcılığa başlamış. Mutlaka ondan ufak tefek şeyler alıp Şükran Lokantası ya da şu an hala aynı yerde hizmet veren Petek Döner’de yerdik yemeğimizi.

Bu arada annem gelmişken köşedeki “Kuru Kahveci Hüseyin Efendi”den kahve, yakınındaki “Düğmeci Çetin”den de düğme, iplik ve sair ihtiyaçlarını alırdı. Raflarında her çeşit düğme, rengarenk dantel, kurdela ve ipliğin bir düzen içinde yerleştirildiği, o küçücük dükkan ne kadar çok ilgimi çekerdi.

Tüm bunlardan sonra ise vapur iskelesine yönelirdik. O zamanlar Karşıyaka’ya yolculuğun en çok kullanılan aracı vapurdu. Biletlerimizi alıp, 10 geçe, 10 kala ya da 20 geçe, 20 kala saatlerinde gelecek olan vapuru beklerken, aramızda hangi vapurun geleceğiyle ilgili iddiaya girerdik. Vapurlara Efes, Selçuk, Sur ve Bergama isimleri verilmişti.

İzmir veya Körfez dördüzleri olarak anılan bu gemileri hatırlayanlar nasıl ayırt ettiğimizi bilirler. Sur ve Efes’in ikinci katta ön güvertesi vardı ve bacaları silindirikti. Buna karşın Bergama ve Efes’in önü yarım daire ve camdı, güvertesi yoktu. Bacaları Denizcilik Bankası’nın ünlü kumbaralarına model olmuş biçimde kavisliydi. Her iki farklı vapurda alt arka ve üst salonlarında deri kaplı koltukları, birinci sınıf oturma yerleri vardı. Altta başta ikinci sınıf tahta oturma yeri vardı.*

Çocuk gözümüz ile bize çok büyük gelen vapurlar, Körfez’de süzülürken oluşan beyaz köpükler için “deniz çamaşır yıkıyor” derdik. Vapurun yanında neşeyle uçuşan martılar adeta vapurla yarışırdı. Yavaşladıklarında biz de onlara simit atardık. Yolcular vapura binerken hazırlıklarını tamamlayan çaycılar vapur kalkar kalmaz çay dolu tepsileriyle dolaşmaya başlar, sigara tiryakileri de çaylarını alarak açık havada sigaralarını içerlerdi. Eğer hava güzelse biz de ya güvertede ya da aşağı katta, vapurun yan kısmındaki (boş bulmak şans eseri olsa da) sıralarda otururduk

Vapur yolculuğunun sonuna yaklaşınca da (o zamanlar daha henüz bütün yalılar yıkılmadığı için) güzelim bahçeli evlerin süslediği Karşıyaka’nın sahilinin doyumsuz görüntüsünü izlemek için pencerelere koşardık. Vapurun iskeleye yanaşması ise ayrı bir olaydı. İskelenin hemen karşısındaki Yapı Kredi Bankası binasının çatısındaki uçan leylek maketi o kadar ilgimizi çekerdi ki; bizim için Karşıyaka ile özdeşleşen bir figürdü adeta. Yakınındaki “Melek Sineması”nda hangi filmin oynadığına bakmadan geçmez, dönüşte belki “sinemaya gireriz” diye heveslenirdik. Karşıyakalı gençlerin her gün buluştuğu Yapı Kredi Bankası’nın önündeki alana ise “Hergele Meydanı” denirdi.

İskele’nin Bostanlı yönünde, deniz kıyısında amcamın oğlu Erdal Abimin nişanının yapıldığı “Tilla Restaurant” o zaman için “balık yenecek en iyi yer” diye söz edilen çok ünlü bir içkili restorandı. Restoranın yanında da ayakkabı boyacıları vardı. Fırçalarını kasalarına vurarak ritmik sesler çıkarır, müşteri davet ederlerdi. Faytoncular da biraz ileride rengarenk süsledikleri faytonları ile sıralanmış, müşteri beklerlerdi.

Hepimiz Karşıyaka’yı çok severdik. Her gidişimizde ise tam anlamıyla Karşıyaka’nın tadını çıkarmak ister, önce iskelenin karşısındaki lokmacıda “yazımızın başlığına uygun olarak” meşhur Karşıyaka lokmamızı yer, daha sonra faytona binerek Bostanlı’ya doğru yola koyulurduk.

Zira Karşıyaka’ya gittiğimizde en sevdiğimiz şeylerden biri de annemin uzaktan akrabaları ve arkadaşı Betigül Teyzemin anne ve babası Baki Paşa ve Hayriye Hanım Teyze’nin Bostanlı’daki evlerine gitmekti. Bostanlı’nın çiçek kokulu sokaklarındaki tek katlı evlerinin rengarenk çiçeklerle bezenmiş bahçesi hala belleğimde…

Eğer vaktimiz bol ise onlarda da bir kahve içilmeden dönülmezdi. Tabii bize de güzel meyve suları ikram edilirdi.

O yıllarda Bostanlı sahili pek hareketli değildi. Karşıyaka daha popülerdi. Sahilde, özellikle Alaybey tarafına doğru pek çok çay bahçesi vardı. Mutlaka onlardan birinde oturulup, bir şeyler içilirdi. Ancak sözünü ettiğim çay bahçeleri daha sonra yıkıldı. Onların yerine otobüs durakları geldi. Bostanlı dolmuş duraklarının biraz ilerisine “Karşıyakalı Çay Bahçesi” yapıldı. Uzun yıllar Karşıyakalılar’ın uğrak yeri oldu.

Karşıya geçmek…

İzmirli olmayan biri için bu kavram caddenin karşısına geçmek olarak algılanır. Ama eğer İzmirli iseniz ve hangi tarafta oturursanız oturun, birine “Bu gün karşıya geçeceğim” dediğinizde o sizin denizin karşısına geçeceğinizi anlar.

Benim için ise çocukluk yıllarımda “karşıya geçmek” Karşıyaka’ya iken, şimdilerde Konak’a olarak değişti. Çünkü Karşıyaka’ya lokma yemeye gide gele, öyle sevmişim ki; Karşıyakalı oluvermişim…

(*) Bu metin Sayın Cem Karagözlü’nün http://cemkaragozlu.blogspot.com.tr/2012/06/bir-vapurun-hikayesi-efes.html adresinden alıntı yapılmıştır.

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