Tarihten Kültüre, Kültürden Lezzete

Tarihten Kültüre, Kültürden Lezzete

Kleopatra’nın güzelleştiği, Homeros’un nişanlandığı yer… Ihlamur ve çınar ağacının aynı gövdede yetiştiği, ölümün yasaklandığı… Lezzetin durağı, kermeslerin cenneti… Etnografya müzesi ile geleneğin, kültürün, tarihin… Kağıdın, yazının ve daha nice güzelliklerin yanında sanatın, müziğin ve efelerin diyarı…

Tepede kurulduğu için önceleri “Yüksek yerin halkı” anlamına gelen “Pargauma” adı verilen şehre önce “Pergamon”, daha sonra da “BERGAMA” denmiş.

Tarihte sıcak suyundan yararlanmak için, üzerinde termal bir sağlık merkezi kurularak, Tanrı Asklepios’a adanan, kazısı esnasında bir “Su Perisi” heykeli bulunan, “Allianoi”a dünyanın her yerinden ağrıları, yaraları olan insanlar, sağlıklarına kavuşmak için gelip, şifa bulmuşlar.

Mısır Tanrıları’na adanan, kırmızı ateş tuğlalarıyla yapılmış görkemli Serapis Tapınağı’na ise zaman içinde “Kızıl Avlu” denmiş. Ana binası, Kozak dağlarından gelen, Bakırçay’ın kollarından, Selinous çayı üzerindeki çok büyük bir alana kurulu “Ne yerde, ne gökte” denilen bir mahallede. Anadolu’nun en görkemli dini yapılarından biri olan tapınak, İncil’e “Hıristiyanlığın ilk yedi kilisesinden birinin cemaatinin tapındığı yer” olarak geçmiş. Hatta buraya “Küçük Ayasofya” bile denmiş. Tapınağın iki dairesel kulesinden biri bir dönem cami, daha sonra da hapishane olarak kullanılmış.

“Asiller mahallesi Akrapol”de, kral saraylarının yanı sıra komutanlar ile devlet görevlilerinin konutları varmış. Kralların ibadet etmesi için Kral Attalos zamanında yapılmış, şimdilerde sadece kalıntıları olan “Heroon”, şehre giriş kapısı önündeki bir avlunun etrafında inşa edilmiş. “Zeus Sunağı” da Bergama’lıların Galatlara karşı kazandığı zaferden sonra tüm tanrılar ve “Athena” adına yaptırılan “Dünya Harikası” bir sunakmış.

Antik dönemin en dik tiyatrolarından biri, on bin kişilik, müzik ve şiir dinletileri ile drama ve toplantıların düzenlendiği tiyatrosu ise diğerlerine göre en iyi durumda.

Viran Kapı denilen kutsal yolun sonunda ise “Asklepion”… Ön meydandaki yılanlı sütun tıbbın sembolü olmuş. Mysia dağlarının yemyeşil eteklerindeki, rüzgar almayan vadide, kaynak sularının yanında kurulu tapınak için tarih boyunca “Su ve havanın en güzel olduğu yer”, “Tanrının sesinin en güzel biçimde duyulduğu yer”, “Oraya sıcaklar sıtma götürmez, orada vasiyetnameler açılmaz” gibi sözler söylenmiş. Büyük alandaki kutsal sular, sihirli bir iksir gibiymiş. Tanrının ayaklarının dibinden çıktığına inanılan bu sular, tüm hastalıkların şifa kaynağıymış. Tedavinin gece ve uykuda gerçekleştiğine inanan hekimler, hastanın rüyasında nasıl iyileşeceğini göreceğini söyler, rüyanın hekime anlatılması sonrası da telkin yoluyla iyileşmeleri sağlanırmış.

Krallar dahil pek çok insan burada tedavi edildiği için ünü dünyaya yayılmış. Ancak parlak dönemi çok uzun sürmemiş. Hıristiyanlığın Bergama’ya yerleşmesi ile tapınak da kiliseye çevrilerek, vaftiz yerine dönüştürülmüş.

İnsanlık tarihinin en önemli buluşlarından… “Parşömen”…

İskenderiye ile Bergama kütüphaneleri dünyanın iki büyük kütüphanesiymiş. İskenderiye, Bergama’ya papirüsün gönderilmesini yasaklayınca “Bergama Kütüphanesi” çok zor durumda kalmış. Kral üzerine yazı yazılacak yeni bir madde bulunmasını emredince de bir deri ustası dişi buzağı derisinden hazırlanmış, bir madde keşfetmiş. Bu kağıda önce “Bergama kağıdı”, daha sonraları da “Parşömen” denilmiş.

Son yıllarda restore edilerek, turizme hizmet etmeye başlayan 500 yıllık “Tarihi Arasta” bir buluşma ve alışveriş yeri olarak, Kale mahallesinin Arnavut kaldırımlı daracık sokaklarındaki 18. yüzyıla ait taşınmaz kültür varlığı olarak tescil edilmiş geleneksel Türk ve Rum evleri de günümüzde otel ya da restoran olarak hizmet vererek geçmişin mirasını günümüze taşıyor.

Tarihi arastanın arkasında, camisi yıkılmış “Güdük Minare”nin yanındaki geçtiğimiz yıl restorasyonu tamamlanan, avlusunda bulunan şadırvan nedeniyle adı “Şadırvanlı Camii” olan cami 1550 yılından kalma.

“Çok Katmanlı Bir Kent” olarak “Unesco Dünya Mirasları” listesine 2014 yılında alınan Helenistik, Roma, Doğu Roma ve Osmanlı Dönemlerine ait pek çok eşsiz esere sahip olan Bergama, ana yoldan içeride olmasına rağmen Ege’nin güneyinden kuzeyine geçen yolcuların lezzet durağı olmayı da başarmış bir yerleşim.

Tadına bakanların bir daha yemek isteyeceği lezzetteki köftesi ise şehrin adı ile anılan “Bergama Köftesi”…

Özel pişirme yöntemiyle damaklarda bambaşka bir tat bırakıyor. Etlerin belli bir süre dinlendirilerek terbiye edilmesinin ardından, özel hazırlanmış baharatlarla odun ateşinde kızartılarak domates, biber, soğan ile piyaz ve yoğurt eşliğinde yeniyor.

Bergama’da bu köfteyi tadabileceğiniz pek çok lokanta var. Ancak bunlardan tarihi “Hacı Hekim Hamamı”nın yanı başındaki “Altın Kepçe” lokantasında yediğimiz köfte ve yanında tattığımız bütün yemekler çok özel lezzette. Ciğer tava, ciğer sarma, kuru fasulye, kavurma, kadınbudu köfte ve daha neler neler…

1967 yılında “Üçkahveler”mevkiinde kurulan ve zaman içinde şimdiki yerine taşınan zengin menüsü, uzman kadrosu, hızlı servisi, tarihi atmosferi ile aynı anda 70 kişiye hizmet verebiliyor. Bu anlamda Bergama’ya gelen yerli ve yabancı turistlerin de uğrak yeri.

Hele bir de çığırtması var ki; nasıl anlatsam bilemiyorum. Görüntüde evlerimizde pişirdiğimiz zeytinyağlı patlıcan yemeğinden bir farkı yok. Ama o lezzeti nasıl yakaladıklarını tarifini aldığım halde ben hala çözemedim.

“Çığırtma”… Bergama mutfağının en tanınmış yemeklerinden. Özellikle yaz mevsiminde sofraların vazgeçilmez lezzeti. Yörenin leziz zeytinyağları ile çapraz bir şekilde kesilmiş, bütün halindeki patlıcanların az yağda “çığırta çığırta” kızartılması yemeğe adını vermiş. Yapımında özellikle ince küçük ve orta boy patlıcanların tercih edildiği çığırtma, bol ince biber, sarımsak ve domates ile pişirilerek, yoğurtla birlikte her öğün severek tüketiliyor.

Yemek sonrası üzeri tahin ve ceviz ile süslenmiş kabak tatlısının ise tadına doyum olmuyor. Üzerine bir de az şekerli kahve içerseniz keyfinize diyecek yok…

Son yıllarda bahar aylarında Bergama Belediyesi ve Ticaret Odası’nın ortak çalışması olan “Bergama Seni Çağırıyor” projesi ise büyük ilgi görüyor. Bergama’nın tanıtımı için son derece faydalı olan bu hizmet kapsamında Bergama’yı görmek isteyenler İzmir’den ücretsiz olarak ilçeye seyahat edebiliyor.

İster bu proje kapsamında ister kendi aracınızla, ama nasıl giderseniz gidin Bergama’nın köftesi ile çığırtmasını yemeden dönmeyin. Sakızlı karanfilli leblebi ile tulum peyniri de alırsanız pek iyi olur.

Hediyelik bir şeyler de mi alsaydık diyorsanız; o zaman bunun için en iyi adreslerden biri Asklepion kavşağındaki “Pergamon Parchment”dir. Hem kendinize hem de yakınlarınıza son derece zarif ürünler alabilirsiniz.

Çünkü içeri girdiğinizde, artık parşömen unutulmuş bir yazı malzemesi olarak değil, sanat ile harmanlanarak, doğduğu topraklarda yeniden hayat bulmuş bir eser olarak çıkıyor karşınıza…

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