İzmir’den Kavala’ya Bir Dostluk Hikayesi

İzmir’den Kavala’ya Bir Dostluk Hikayesi

Hikaye geçtiğimiz yıl arkadaşlarımız Kadri ve Hüseyin’in Kavala’yı ziyareti ile başlıyor…

Hüseyin, Batı Trakya’nın İskeçe şehrinde yaşayan bir ailenin oğlu. Her yaz ailesini görmeye giderken, bu defa Kadri de ona eşlik ediyor. Kadri’nin ailesi de mübadele ile Kavala’nın Moushteni (Müştiyan) köyünden İzmir’in Selçuk ilçesinin Şirince köyüne gelen mübadil bir aile. Amaçları önce Hüseyin’in ailesini ziyaret etmek, daha sonra da Kadri’nin dedelerinin yaşadığı toprakları görmek.

Şirin mi şirin Moushteni köyüne vardıklarında soluklanmak için oturdukları köy kahvesinde İzmir’den geldiklerini söyleyince, etraflarına toplanan köy halkı onlarla sohbet etmek için can atıyor. Zira bu köyün insanları da çoğunlukla Söke’nin Bağarası ve civarından mübadele ile gelmiş olanlar. Hemen Belediye Başkanı Bayan Amelie’ye haber salıyorlar. Başkan işi gücü bırakıp, Kadri ile Hüseyin’in yanına geliyor.

Sohbet koyulaştıkça bizimkiler halk oyunları ile ilgilediklerini, İzmir Turizm Folklor Derneği üyesi olduklarını, hatta Kadri’nin bu alanda yüksek lisans yaptığını söylüyorlar. Bayan Amelie hemen onları eşinin ailesi Niğde’den Moushteni’ye mübadele ile gelmiş olan, Kavala’daki Halk Oyunları Derneği Başkanı Eleni Kotanidou ile tanıştırıyor.

Eleni ve bizimkiler tarihte kardeşçe bir arada yaşamış olan iki halkın yer değiştirmelerine rağmen gerçekte dans ve müzik gibi ortak kültürleri olduğunu düşünerek, “hep birlikte dans edersek, birbirimize danslarımızı öğretirsek, türkülerimizi bir arada söylersek, birbirimize misafir olursak geçmişte olduğu gibi tekrar dostluk ve kardeşlik içinde yaşayabiliriz” diye düşünmüşler. Ve temeli atmışlar. Zira onların danslarının da bazıları Anadolu’dan göçen danslarmış.

Bu kapsamda ilk olarak İzmir Turizm Folklor Derneğimiz bu yıl Haziran ayında Kavala’dan gelen ekibi İzmir’de ağırladı. Yıl sonu gösterimizde aynı sahnede dans ettik. Birlikte yedik, içtik, türküler söyledik. İzmir’imizi ve çevresini onlara tanıttık. Giderken son derece mutluydular. Dostluğun ve kardeşliğin temelleri atılmıştı…

Elbette bunun bir de iade-i ziyareti olmalıydı. Onlar da bizi Kavala’nın Thassos adasında Temmuz ayında başlayıp, Ağustos ayında da devam eden Thassos Kültür ve Sanat Festivali’ne davet etti. Tabii ki memnuniyetle kabul ettik ve çalışmalara başladık.

Tüm hazırlıklar tamamlandığında Ağustos ayının 23’ü gecesi saat 10.00’da otobüsle yola çıktık. Sabah saat 06.00’da İpsala Sınır Kapısı’ndaydık. Oldukça kalabalıktı. Sınırı geçtikten sonra bizden iki gün önce gemi ile Kavala, oradan da Dedeağaç’a geçen arkadaşlarımızı buluşma noktasından alarak, Gümülcine, Karasu derken İskeçe’ye ulaştık.

Hüseyin bizden birkaç gün evvel ailesini görmeye İskeçe’ye gitmişti. Karşılamak için yol üstünde bizi bekliyordu. Zira biz de annesi Enbiye Teyze’nin sabah kahvaltısı için bütün gece uyumadan yaptığı pişilerin hayali ile geceyi geçirmiştik.

Envai çeşit renk çiçeklerle bezenmiş bahçeli o şipşirin evin balkonuna 25 kişi nasıl sığdık hatırlayamıyorum, ama Hüseyin’in ailesinin gösterdiği misafirperverlik ile yaptığımız kahvaltının tadı ve keyfi ömrümün sonuna kadar unutamayacağım bir anı olarak belleğime kazındı. Hele hepimizi tek tek kucaklayan, o sıcacık gülümsemesi ile bizleri annemiz gibi sarıp sarmalayan Enbiye Teyze’yi unutmak mümkün mü?

Her ne kadar “günlerce kalsak sıkılmazdık” desek de, yolumuza devam etmemiz gerekiyordu. Biraz da İskeçe’yi görmek ve İskeçe Türk Birliği’ni ziyaret etmek için koyulduk yola. Şehrin daracık parke taşlı ara sokaklarındaki o güzelim evlerin arasından geçerek vardık birliğe. Orada da büyük ilgi ve sevgi ile karşılandık. Karşılıklı konuşmalar ve güzel projelerde bir araya gelme dilekleri ile birbirimize hediyeler vererek ayrıldık.

İskeçe Batı Trakya’nın önemli yerleşim yerlerinden biri. Türkiye’ye yaklaşık 130 kilometre uzaklıkta. Bu güzel şehrin tarihi M.Ö 870’li yıllara dayanıyor. İskeçe küçük bir yerleşim birimi olarak başlayıp, Trakya tarihinde hep çok önemli bir konuma sahip olmuş. 1371 yılında ise Osmanlı İmparatorluğu egemenliği altına girmiş.

Yerel Türk nüfusunu güçlendirmek amacıyla Anadolu ve özellikle Konya bölgesinden İskeçe ve civarına halk yerleştirilmiş. 1700’lere gelindiğinde ise İskeçe artık tütün üretimi ve işlemesi ile tanınmış ve bunun sayesinde refah düzeyini yükseltmiş bir yerleşim olmuş. Ancak 1829’da gerçekleşen iki şiddetli deprem ile kent büyük bir yıkıma uğramış. Bu olaydan sonra şehir yeniden yapılanmış.

Lozan Anlaşması’nda İskeçe’deki Türk halkı mübadeleden muaf tutulmuş. Şu an halkının yaklaşık yüzde 40’ı Türk olan İskeçe’de gelenek ve göreneklerini, kültürlerini yaşatmak için nitelikli çalışmalar yapan bir Türk Birliği var. Şehir ise tarihi ve yeni yapıların bir arada olduğu güzel bir yerleşim yeri. Modern kafe ve restoranları ile Osmanlı zamanından kalan bir saatin de yer aldığı güzel meydanı ile son derece görülmeye değer bir şehir.

İskeçe’den ayrılıp, yaklaşık bir saat sonra Kavala’ya vardığımızda bizi Eleni ve ekibi karşılıyor. Hemen bizi kalacağımız Palio Bölgesi’ne götürüyorlar. Hazırladıkları yemekleri yiyip, yerleşip, şehri tanımak için çıkıyoruz yola…

Kavala, masmavi denizi, denizin kıyısında kurulmuş anfi tiyatroyu andıran görüntüsü, tertemiz sahilleri, dünya kültür mirası listesine girmiş eserleri ile bir cennet köşesini andırıyor.

Şehrin parke taş döşeli sokaklarında dolaşırken kulağımıza gelen fısıltıları duymazdan gelemiyoruz. O kadar çok yaşanmışlık var ki bu şehirde… Yolda yürürken hikayesinin içine alıveriyor sizi de… “Old Town” levhasından içeri doğru girdiğinizde artık hikayenin parçası oluveriyorsunuz. Ahşap balkonlu, mis kokulu çiçeklerle bezenmiş bahçeleri ile tarihi evlerde kim bilir kimler yaşadı diye düşünmeden kendinizi alamıyorsunuz.

Kavala’daki ikinci günümüzde sabah erkenden yola çıkıyoruz. İstikamet bembeyaz kumsalları, turkuaz rengi denizi, doğal güzellikleri ve ormanları ile ünlü, hatta “Yüzen Orman” denilen “Thassos” adası.

Çevresinde karayolu ile ulaşılabilen pek çok doğal plaj var.

Adadaki beyaz mermer ocakları, altın başta olmak üzere metal zenginlikleri bölgeyi ticari açıdan çok değerli bir yer haline getirmiş. Bu ocakların bir kısmı halen faal ve ciddi bir mermer ticareti yapılıyor.

Thassos’un bir de mitolojik hikayesi var…

Fenike Kralı Agenoras’ın oğlu Thassos, kaybolan kız kardeşi Europa’yı aramaya çıkar. Oysa Zeus, boğaya dönüşerek, Europa’yı kaçırmıştır. Thassos, kız kardeşini ararken yolu bu adaya düşer ve buraya yerleşme kararı alır. Adaya da kendi adını verir.

Akşam gösterimiz Thassos’da olacağı için adaya feribot ile geçeceğiz. Bu yüzden otobüsümüz ile önce Keramoti’ye geliyoruz. Yaklaşık bir saatlik yolculuk sonrası kendimizi bir cennet adada buluyoruz. Otobüsümüz bizi altın plajlarından birinde bırakıyor. Kendimizi masmavi sulara bırakıyoruz. Deniz sonrası şahane bir yemek bizi bekliyor. Yemek sonrası ise önce adadaki folklor müzesini geziyoruz, daha sonra da hazırlanmak üzere gösterinin yapılacağı bölgeye geliyoruz.

Kortej sonrası Kavala ve Bulgar ekipleri ile birlikte gerçekleştirdiğimiz gösterimizi kalabalık ve coşkulu bir seyirci topluluğu izliyor. Afyon ve Bergama kadın oyunlarımız ve Erkek zeybek ekiplerimiz ile çok güzel bir gösteri gerçekleştiriyoruz. Gösteri sonrası saat 23.00’deki son feribota yetişerek Kavala’ya dönüyoruz.

Bir sonraki günümüzün ilk durağı Kavala’ya 17 kilometre uzaklıktaki Filippi Antik Kenti…

2016 yılında UNESCO Dünya Miras Listesi’ne alınan antik kentin en önemli anıtları ve eserleri Surlar, Akropolis, Tiyatro, Agora, Bazilika A ve B, Sekizgen Tapınak…

Mahallelerini kemerli köprülerin birleştirdiği, taştan yapılmış geleneksel evleri, eski Türk okulu, konakları, su değirmeni, taş çeşmeleri, köprüleri, tipik meydanları ile Moushtheni o kadar sıcacık ve şirin bir köy ki; mübadele ile Şirince’ye gelen halkı her ne kadar zaman içinde yeni köylerine alışsalar da buranın özlemini çekmemeleri mümkün değil…

Onlar da Anadolu’nun özlemini çekiyor olmalılar ki; köye girer girmez evlerden birinin penceresinden “Karadeniz’den gelen var mı?” diye seslenen bir beye arkadaşlarımızdan biri cevap veriyor.

Köye girer girmez Belediye Başkanı Bayan Amelie bizi karşılıyor. Bize köyü gezdirdikten sonra, köyün sosyal tesisinde yemek veriyor. Hepsi o kadar misafirperver ki; bir anda kaynaşıyoruz. Yine hediyeler, güzel dilekler ve tekrar buluşma sözleri ile köyden ayrılıyoruz.

Akşam Old Town’daki İmaret’in karşısındaki Taverna’da yediğimiz deniz mahsüllü yemek ise unutulmazlar arasında yerini alıyor.

Ertesi gün ise Kavala Belediye Başkanı ile randevumuz var. Öğlen saat 12.00’ye kadar şehrin merkezinde hediyelik ve Kavala Kurabiyesi alışverişlerinden sonra Belediye Başkanı Bayan Dimitra Tsalaka bizi kabul ediyor. Türk ve Yunan halkının sevgi ve kardeşliğinden söz eden içten bir konuşma yaptıktan sonra bu tür organizasyonların devamını diliyor ve bunun için yerel yönetimlerin destek vermesi gerektiğini ifade ediyor. Yine hepimize hediyeler veriyor ve biz de İzmir’e özgü hediyelerimizi kendisine takdim ederek belediyeden ayrılıyoruz.

O gün ekibin Kavala’daki son günüydü. Biz birkaç gün daha kalacağımız için onları şehir merkezinden uğurlayarak, Kavala’yı daha derinden tanıyabilmek için şehrin derinliklerine doğru yola koyulduk…

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