Harikalar Diyarı Fas’ın Renk Cümbüşlü Şehri / Marakeş

Harikalar Diyarı Fas’ın Renk Cümbüşlü Şehri / Marakeş

Bu şehri tek bir kelime ile anlatmak isterdim, ama ne mümkün? Çünkü;

Marakeş demek saraylar, bahçeler, meydanlar, türbeler, müzeler demek…

Marakeş demek Medina ve Gueliz demek…

Marakeş demek cafeler, restoranlar, çarşılar demek…

Marakeş demek “Kızıl Şehir” demek…

Marakeş demek daracık, çıkmaz ara sokaklar demek…

Marakeş demek “Murr a kush” yani “Tanrının Toprakları” demek…

Dahası, Atlas dağlarının eteklerine sığınmış demek…

Daha ne var derseniz eğer, bu liste böyle uzar gider…

En iyisi gidip, adım adım keşfetmek olsa da, önce okumak, anlamaya çalışmak, zamanı geldiğinde ise dokunmak ve hissetmek belki de…

Bu yüzden daha önce yazılmışların üzerine ben de birkaç cümle yazarsam, katkım olur düşüncesiyle klavyenin tuşlarında yeni bir yolculuk planladım… Hadi birlikte basalım tuşlara…

Kazablanka’da uçağımızdan iner inmez yola koyulup, yaklaşık 2,5 saat sonra, gece yarısında Marakeş’e varıyoruz.  Ertesi gün göreceklerimizin heyecanı ile yarım yamalak uyusak da, sabah son derece dinç kalkıyoruz.

Güzel bir kahvaltının ardından ilk durağımızda Saadian Tombs (Saadi Mezarları) var.

Marakeş’i çevreleyen surlarda, eski şehir merkezi Medina’ya girebilmek için tam ondokuz kapı var. Bab Agnaou bu kapıların sadece biri. Kraliyet mensuplarına özel hazırlandığı için işlemeleri son derece göz alıcı. Kapıdan geçince sol tarafta karşımıza El Badi Sarayı ve Saadian Mezarları çıkıyor.

Fas’ta 1524 -1659 yılları arasında hüküm süren ve Marakeş’i başkent yapan, Saadi Hanedanlığı’nın önde gelen üyelerinin mezarlarının bulunduğu sur duvarları ile çevrili, mozaikleri, sütunları ve ahşap işçiliği ile sarayları aratmayacak güzellikte, yeşillikler içinde gül ağaçları ile bezeli bir avlu bahçe…

Saadi Hanedanlığı’nın egemenliği sona erince yerine gelen Alaouite Hanedanlığı’nın Sultanı İsmail Ibn Şerif  bir önceki dönemin varlığını unutturabilmek için onlara ait olan her şeyi yağmalatmış, yok etmiş. Ancak mezarlara dokunmanın dini açıdan saygısızlık olacağını düşünerek, Saadi Mezarları’nı yıktırmaya korkmuş. Bunun üzerine başkaları tarafından görülmesine engel olmak için mezarların girişini yüksek bir duvar ile kapattırmış.

Duvarın üstü yıllar içinde kumlarla kaplanmış ve üzerinde çok büyük bir höyük oluşmuş. Mezarların birkaç yüzyıl boyunca saklı kalmasının en büyük sebebi buymuş. Yirminci yüzyılın başlarına gelindiğinde şehirde araştırma yapan Fransızlar şehrin tam ortasında böyle bir höyük olmasını coğrafi açıdan pek mantıklı bulmamışlar. 1917 yılında kazmaya başlayınca, önce duvarı ve arkasındaki gizli yolu, sonra da mezarları bulmuşlar.

Saadi Mezarlarına daracık yüksek duvarlı, koridor benzeri, labirenti andıran daracık yoldan yürüyerek giriyorsunuz. Bu kadar muhteşem bir yapının girişi daha görkemli olmalıydı diye düşünseniz de, hikayeyi dinleyince ikna oluyorsunuz.

İçeride üç ayrı mezar odası var. On iki sütunlu odanın İtalyan mermerleri, diğer iki odanın ise mozaikleri çok etkileyici. Muhteşem mozaiklerle süslü yatay mezar taşlarının hiçbirinin üzerinde kime ait olduğu yazmıyor. Ancak saray kayıtlarından kimin nerede yattığı öğrenilebiliyor.

Biraz ileride şehrin her yerinden görünen, atla çıkılabilen, yetmiş yedi metre yüksekliğindeki,  her yüzünde farklı bir sanatsal süsleme olan, dikdörtgen kule şeklindeki minaresi ile Marakeş’in en büyük camisi… Koutoubia (Kutubiye) …

Marakeş’in ara sokaklarında kaybolursanız yönünüzü bulmak için caminin minaresini kullanabilirsiniz. Çünkü şehrin neresine giderseniz gidin minareyi görmek mümkün. Tarihi ve mimari özelliğiyle şehrin ve ülkenin önemli yapılarından biri. Minarenin en üstünde ise hilal yerine bir top var…

Bu özellikleri ile minare Fas’taki pek çok camiye de örnek olmuş. Bunun en iyi örneği Kazablanka’daki  iki yüz on metrelik minaresi ile “dünyanın en yüksek minareli camii” ünvanını alan II. Hasan Cami’nin minaresi…

Yakup Mansur’un hüküm sürdüğü Muvahhidler Dönemi’nde, 1184 yılında temeli atılan caminin yapımı 1199’da tamamlanmış. Arapça “koutoubiyyin” kelimesi “kitapçı” anlamına geliyor. Zira cami yapılmadan önce yerinde yüz kadar kitapçı olduğu ve halk tarafından bölge bu isimle bilindiği için cami bu şekilde adlandırılmış. İbadet dışında ziyarete kapalı olmasına rağmen bahçesi ise ziyarete açık.

Camiye etrafında bulunan portakal ve selvi ağaçlarının süslediği yoldan geçilerek giriliyor. Taş kemerli ana giriş kapısıyla görkemli bir yapı olan caminin el işlemesi ve oyma mimarisine hayran olmamak elde değil. Yüzyıllardan beri Müslümanların ibadetini yerine getirdiği caminin hemen yanında ise eski caminin kalıntıları var. Söylentilere göre inşaatı tamamlanan caminin kıblesinin hatalı olduğu fark edilince, cami açılmadan yıkılarak, yerine bugünkü Kutubiye Cami yapılmış.

Marakeş’in kalbi… Djemaa el-Fna… (Faniler Meydanı)

Şehir kurulduğundan bu yana iyisiyle kötüsüyle her şeye şahit olmuş bir meydan… Onu en iyi ifade eden kelimeler belki de duman, koku, müzik, renk, dans ve gürültü…

Jemaa “cemaat” anlamına geliyor. Murâbıt Hanedanlığı 1040-1147 yılları arasında Fas’ta hüküm sürmüş. Marakeş’i kurup, başkent yapmışlar. Bugün meydanın bulunduğu yerde ise büyük bir camileri varmış. Cemaat anlamına gelen Jemaa kelimesinin yıkılan bu cami nedeniyle kullanıldığı düşünülüyor.

Fna kelimesinin ise fnaa ya da fina’dan geldiği, caminin önündeki avlu anlamına geldiği söyleniyor. Yani “cemaatin avlusu”, “toplanma, buluşma yeri” gibi bir anlamı var. Meydan tam da böyle bir yer zaten…

Djemaa el-Fna’nın bir diğer anlamı ise Fnaa kelimesinin ölü anlamında da kullanılmasından ve bu meydanda yapılan idamlar nedeniyle “Ölüler Meclisi”…

Gündüzleri sakin ve daha çok pazar yerini andıran meydan, güneşin Atlas Dağları’nın ardına sığınırken bağıra bağıra yaydığı o muhteşem kızıllığın eşliğinde, meydana açılan daracık sokaklardan süzülerek gelen yüzlerce satıcı, sokak yemekçileri, turistleri gezdiren at arabaları, kınacılar, falcılar, yılancılar, maymuncular, meyve suyu satıcıları, akrobatlar, şarkıcılar ve hikâye anlatıcılarıyla sizi yüzyıllar öncesinde bir harikalar diyarında hissettirecek bir ortama dönüşüyor.

Burası Unesco’nun “İnsanlığın sözlü ve soyut mirasının başyapıtları” listesindeki geleneksel bir Kuzey Afrika Meydanı…

Biz ise bu görüntüyü daha önceden yerleştiğimiz Brasserie Du Glasier’in terasından izliyoruz. Hafif serinleyen havada, meydanda üzerleri yeşil tentelerle örtülmüş sofralar kurulurken, ses, koku ve renkler adeta uyum içinde dans ediyor. Kimilerine göre bu bir keşmekeş olarak tanımlansa da bu anları yaşadığınız süre çok uzun olmadığı için çok fazla da rahatsız edici değil, hatta çok keyifli bile diyebilirim. Bana göre bu meydanı görüp etkilenmemek mümkün değil. Tüm otantikliği ile gördüğüm en cazibeli meydan diyebilirim…

Numaralı yemek standlarının olduğu kısımda insanlar o kadar güler yüzlü ve aynı zamanda o kadar ısrarcılar ki, herkes herkese dokunuyor. Yaklaşırsan dokunmasına izin vermiş sayılıyorsun. Ama aynı samimiyeti fotoğraflarını çektiğinizde göstermiyorlar. Hemen ya karşılığında para istiyorlar ya da fotoğrafı sildirene kadar uğraşıyorlar.

Sokaklar nane ve baharat kokuyor.

Baharatçılar, kelimenin tam anlamıyla “Müslüman Mahallesi’nde salyangoz pişirip satanlar”, ev eşyası ve aksesuar tezgahları, kilimler, terlikler…

Bir kahve içmek ve meydanı seyretmek için Cafe de France‘a oturup, etrafı seyretmek son derece keyifli… Kahvesi ise muhteşem…

Fas’a İngilizler Morocco, Fransızlar Maroc, Araplar ise El-Mağrib diyorlar. Bizim dilimize ise, Osmanlı’nın Kuzey Afrika’da ilerleyebildiği en uzak toprakların ‘Fez’ şehri olmasından dolayı ‘Fas’ olarak yerleşmiş.  Halkının büyük çoğunluğu Berberi, diğerleri ise Arap-Berberi olarak geçiyor.

Kendi aralarında Berberice konuşan, Arapça ve Fransızca bilen Kuzey Afrika’nın bilinen en eski halkı Berberiler’in kültürleri, gelenekleri, müzikleri, günlük yaşamları ise oldukça farklı. Şarkıları ise oldukça ritmik olmasına rağmen bazen de çok dingin.

Aslında onlar kendilerine Amazigh (Özgür insan) diyorlar. Berberi, barbar anlamında, Romalıların bu topluluklara yakıştırdığı bir isim, ancak halk bu isimden son derece rahatsız.

Bazı yerlerde Fas bayrağının yanında Berberilerin bayrağı da var… Sarı, mavi, yeşil renkteki bayraklarının tam ortasında yer alan sembol Amazigh anlamına gelen sembol.  Marakeş’te pek çok yerde bu sembolü görmek mümkün. Bayraktaki sarı renk Sahra Çölü’nü, mavi renk Atlas Okyanusu’nu, yeşil renk de Atlas Dağlarını simgeliyor.

Burada ne Afrika, ne Arap, ne de Avrupa kültürü baskın. Tam bir mozaik…

Ortasında bahçe ya da avlu bulunan, etrafı duvarla çevrili, 8-10 odalı, geleneksel Fas evlerine “riad” ismi veriliyor. Bu riadlardan bazıları konaklama tesisine çevrilmiş butik otel olarak kullanılıyor.

Tajin lezzet olarak Türk güvecine benzer bir yemek. Ancak güveçten farklı olarak sebzeli, etli tavuklu ve balıklı olarak yapılıyor. Tajin hem bu yemeğin hem de pişirilen kabın adı. Topraktan yapılan ve iki parçadan oluşan kabın tabanı düz, kapağı konik ve derin…

Fas’ın sıvı altını olarak adlandırılan argan yağı ise, dünyada sadece Fas’ın güney batısında yetişen argan ağacının meyvesinden elde edilen mucizevi bir yağ. Argan yağı, antik çağlardan bu yana Faslılar tarafından kozmetik ve sayısız şifa kaynağı olarak kullanılan, %100 doğal, katkısız, eşsiz bir yağ ve argan ağacının meyvesinde bulunan çekirdeklerden çıkarılıor. Argan yağının üretiminde kullanılan argan ağacı, yok olma tehlikesine karşı, Unesco tarafından da koruma altına alınmış.

Medina tarihi yapılarla ve pazarlarla varken, Guéliz’de  modern binalar ve uluslararası markaların satıldığı dükkânlar var.  Gueliz’deki geniş caddeler, sağlı sollu turunç ağaçlarıyla süslenmiş. Portakala benzeyen ama acı olduğu için toplanmayan bu meyveler, her mevsim ağacın dallarını süslüyor.

Fransız ressam Jacques Majorelle Marakeş’e ilk kez 1917 yılında gelmiş ve gördüğü renklere ve havasına aşık olmuş. Aradığı ilhamı burada bulan ressam, evlenip Marakeş’e yerleşmiş. 1923’de bir arazi satın alarak, bahçesine beş kıtadan getirttiği bitkileri dikmeye başlamış. Majorelle daha sonra buraya kübik  bir villa inşa ettirmiş. Bir süre sonra bahçe o kadar güzelleşmiş ki, merak edenlerin bilet alıp gezebildiği, Marakeş’te görülmesi gereken bir yer olmuş. Majorelle’in Fas’ta gördüğü mozaik renklerinden etkilenerek, villayı ve bahçe duvarlarını boyadığı mavi ton, “Majorelle Blue” ismi ile tescilli, tanınan bir renk haline gelmiş.

1955’te geçirdiği trafik kazasında bir bacağını kaybetmiş. İşleri kötüleşmiş, maddi sıkıntı yaşayınca villayı ve bahçeyi satmak zorunda kalmış. 1961’de geçirdiği ikinci bir kaza sonrası tedavi için Paris’e gitmiş. 1962’de Paris’te vefat etmiş. Jardin Majorelle, ressam Majorelle’in en ünlü eseri olarak biliniyor.

Yves Saint Laurent ve Pierre Bergé ise bu bahçeyi ilk kez 1966 yılında görmüş. O kadar çok sevmişler ki sürekli ziyaret etmeye başlamışlar. Bahçe onlar için ilham kaynağı olmuş. 1980’de Jardin Majorelle’in otel projesi için yıkılması gündeme geldiğinde Laurent ve Bergé, bahçeyi ve villayı yıkılmaktan kurtarmak için satın almışlar.

O günden sonra bahçeyi daha da güzelleştirmişler. Bugün bahçede üç yüzden fazla bitki türü var. 2008 yılında vefat edince vasiyeti üzerine Laurent’in külleri bu bahçeye savrulmuş. Bahçede bir de YSL anıtı var. Bahçenin bulunduğu caddeye de Yves Saint Laurent ismi verilmiş.

İşte, Marakeş böyle bir şehir… Her köşesi ayrı bir dünya, ayrı bir renk, ayrı bir cümbüş…  Meydanları, pazarları, ara sokakları, sarayları, riadları, camileri ile her gün yeniden keşfedilmeyi bekleyen masalsı bir şehir. Daha doğrusu bir harikalar diyarı…

Burada bulunduğunuz sürece yapılması gereken tek şey var ki; o da kendinizi şehrin ritmine bırakıp, zaman nasıl akıyorsa ona ayak uydurmak…

Yolculuğumuz devam edecek… Fas’ın diğer şehirlerinde görüşmek üzere…

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